Cheaper Lexan Joystick Covers Made in NZ!!!

[Lennysaurus]

I have autocad, if you can give me the exact dimensions I can probably make the file up for you.

hmmm... how good are you on the old autocad there rory?  Im thinking of getting a full plexi case from arthong, but if you can rock the autocad half decent we could try and do it ourselves and just take it to a plastic place to get it cut out... We could be rocking mean sticks come nationals lol..

There might be a kiss and a cuddle in it for you if you play your cards right.

[massi4h]

Yeah I really wanna do my stick up real cool like those ones on srk, but I'm no tekkie and I'm too scared to do shit to my stick which is still pretty new.

[originaljulz]

Orly? It seems like all these stick manufacturers keep modders in mind when they make them. It's easy peasy to mod an Hrap3, anyway. It's my first stick, and I've already modded it. (Just needa put plexi over the art and I'm done )

[Rorooze]

I ain't gonna be humble, I'm S-rank at AutoCAD. lol.

Hook me up with the file TE file lenny!

Julz, you'll need to hook me up with the HRAP dimensions on a sketch or find something on the net if you want a CAD file making up.

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html has heaps of layouts and I could easily turn any of those into AutoCAD files if you tell me which one is the HRAP layout

[originaljulz]

I have no idea where I would go about getting a sketch for the hrap panel online. It looks like it would be harder to do that the TE stick, because the bottom is curvy, as opposed to each 4 sides being straight.

[originaljulz]

I'd need to get my metal panel back from the plastic place before I could check if any of those layouts in your link are for the Hrap3.

One of those PSD templates which are to the dimensions of the panel (which you use for making the artwork) won't be any help right? Coz I have lots of those lol.

[Rorooze]

The PSD's would probably be OK because I could scale off the 30mm diameter buttons. I don't do photoshop though :p

Surely someone knows what one of those layouts are for the HRAP? I think it is one of the SEGA layouts but not sure which one?

[originaljulz]

Those of you that got their plexis from Art's Hobbies- how thick was the plexi?

And Lenny, how about the plexi you got from Plus Plastics?

So the guy at plus plastics cut one out by hand for me, since the autocad would cost too much (I still don't get why it costs so much).

It was only like $45 so I suppose I can't really complain, and the cuts are actually relatively accurate. Its just the thickness is bugging me. It's at least 2mm thick, (prob a bit more like, 3 or 4.) So when I put it on top of my metal panel, my snap in Sanwa buttons don't 'snap' in, they just sit there with the snappy tab bits constantly pressed in.

Any ideas on what I can do to solve it or if I should just leave it like that (I don't like that idea, since I feel like once I take the buttons out again, the tabs will be permanently pressed it, and won't snap in again)

[Lennysaurus]

its different for me cause I got the plexi to replace the bezel ont he TE so it sits at the right thickness.

[Rorooze]

Those of you that got their plexis from Art's Hobbies- how thick was the plexi?

And Lenny, how about the plexi you got from Plus Plastics?

So the guy at plus plastics cut one out by hand for me, since the autocad would cost too much (I still don't get why it costs so much).

It was only like $45 so I suppose I can't really complain, and the cuts are actually relatively accurate. Its just the thickness is bugging me. It's at least 2mm thick, (prob a bit more like, 3 or 4.) So when I put it on top of my metal panel, my snap in Sanwa buttons don't 'snap' in, they just sit there with the snappy tab bits constantly pressed in.

Any ideas on what I can do to solve it or if I should just leave it like that (I don't like that idea, since I feel like once I take the buttons out again, the tabs will be permanently pressed it, and won't snap in again)

you could make some little grooves where the snap in bits go to make the plexi thinner at that location, use a dremel or something?

Was he going to charge to make the autocad file or to cut using an autocad file?

[originaljulz]

A what now? And yeah lol was gonna charge me $100+ for the autocad >:O

Like, to make it. If I could have gotten my hands on an autocad for my stick, he wouldn't have charged me for it.

[Rorooze]

A dremel is kind of like an electric toothbrush which grinds stuff down. You could probably use it on the plexi to groove into the plexi to make the plexi at the hole locations thinner.

[originaljulz]

I see I see. So you mean, where the snap in tab bits would go, file away that point on the plexi. Like this.

[[NIUE] BIRRY WONG]

You dont want to do that. Your buttons wouldn't be secure.

He means around the edges of the button holes, use a dremel to file it down so that around the edges of the buttons, the panel is thinner, thus allowing the snap in portions enough room to do their thing.

Eg:



The diagram at the top is a cross section of how the button holes look currently, whereas the bottom would be how it would look post-dremel.

If you go this way, make sure not to file down wider than the lip of the buttons, otherwise the filing will be visible on whatever art you put under the plexi.

[originaljulz]

Lol damn I figured that's what he meant. Christ that's gonna take a lot of work then.