Was wondering whether anyone has modded one of these before:
http://www.goldenshop.com.hk/AI-trad/psx2hard/fstick.htm
planning to swap out the stock buttons for sanwas and also the stick...it seems like it needs a screw to secure either a sanwa or seimitsu....
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=206488
I have at my disposal a dreamcast agetec and a namco (yellow/grey) psx stick, would the joystick from them work in the hss clone?
it should but u can just rip a ps1/ps2 controller and hack it instead.
it has a custom ps2 pcb inside already, the buttons are soldered on so I plan to free them and chuck in sanwas instead. The tricky but is the stick. It has a similar setup like the namco stick, but the wires are soldered onto the pcb rather than the microswitches. I got it 2nd hand and the stick is stiff and will only activate the microswitch it pushed hard and one of the button is sticky...2 great reasons to mod it I suppose...
u either change the whole stick or get sanwa stick and replace it.
If ur gona keep teh stick then u have to follow the wiring it currently has.
What he means is, he doesnt like the current joystick, and he has 2 existing ones, so he wants to know if he can use one of those instead of a brand new sanwa joystick.
To answer the question. Yes. Though when you say "the wires are soldered onto the pcb rather than the microswitches" I assume you're talking about the PCB that is attached to the joystick itself, not the actual PS2 PCB. This is fine, but you need to figure out which wires are assigned to which respective microswitch, so that you know where to solder the wires on the NEW stick.
If the controller is working in its current state, try disconnecting the wires one at a time. The ground wire should be labelled SOMEWHERE hopefully, which makes that fairly simple. but as for the other ones. Disconnect one, turn the stick on, note which input youve lost and write that shit down. Repeat. Best to make sure youre not in any kind of menu before doing this. As that could get frustrating.
To be honest the most annoying part will probably be attempting to remove the buttons from the PS2 PCB. There is no easy way around that unfortunately. Besides ripping the fucker off, but thats a good way to break the PCB, so dont do that if thats the PCB you want to use.
solder sucker/solder wick is about the only way around that.
Quote from: fluxcore on April 23, 2010, 05:37:54 PM
solder sucker/solder wick is about the only way around that.
by that you mean to solder the sanwa buttons directly on the pcb like the original buttons right? Cause the pcb will be unsecure otherwise?
Solder sucker/wick is basically an 'anti solder' that you use to de-solder things. Normally you could just reheat the solder and remove the wires etc, but because you have all the buttons soldered directly on to the pcb, then there is no way to do it safely without using sucker/wick.
I have successful learnt how to use the solder wick and manage to desolder the button board, next going to try to mount the jlf onto the plate. Anyone used the metal epoxy to chemically weld bolts to plate before to mount the stick? Any tips??
bolts, sprint and nut should be sufficient but if u really care then put minor light glue to hold it.
The clone's plate does not have the right holes for the new sticks' holes and was trying to think up some other ideas to secure the new stick on the plate...dont have the tools to cut a custom metal plate.
I am on the last leg of the mod, the thing that stumped me last night is the joystick...I took out the original ascii one and put in a jlf, however, when I wired up the harness to the pcb via a connector, the computer would only recognise left and down. I wired up the directions correctly, but noticed there is a "G" which I wired the black wire to (assuming its ground) but there is another point called "V" which the original stick was soldered to. I notice on closer inspection of the original sticks microswitch pcb that it has a deliberate cut on the board to terminate a path. The G and V point was soldered on the Down and Right microswitch.
So close, yet so far...please help!
This might imply the board isn't common ground? If there are two separate grounds for the directions, you might have to split them in the same way on your jlf pcb and then use the 'v' wire for the other grounds, as weird as this sounds (V should be +Vcc!)
Probably need to poke around with a multimeter to confirm.
those PCB's probably don't have common ground...that is possibly why you only got 2 signals working as I've come across this before.
You got a JLF tp 8y? its the one with the stick, PCB with micros switches solder on which looks like this:
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8968/jlftp8t.jpg)
this is a common ground stick so what you will have to do is split the ground in half on the stick's PCB so it becomes two seperate grounds.
looking at the PCB of the stick from the top green side.
2----------3 -----> cut the side of this corner to split the ground 1, 2 should link and 3, 4 should link.
| Green |
__| surface |
|__|________|
1 4
that should fix your issue.
...
yeah sorry what andy said
::)
Quote from: fluxcore on May 12, 2010, 12:09:13 PM
...
yeah sorry what andy said
::)
actually it was u who taugh me this Alan :P
hmmm....dont really fancy cutting up the pcb...will it be ok if I desolder the microswitch from the pcb and daisy chain 2 of the switches for "G" and 2 for "V"?
Quote from: zosla on May 12, 2010, 12:44:43 PM
actually it was u who taugh me this Alan :P
You both said the same thing, except you included a sweet ascii diagram.
Quote from: zosla on May 12, 2010, 12:44:43 PM
actually it was u who taugh me this Alan :P
Thanks Alan, thanks Andy.
Quote from: rugdoctor on May 12, 2010, 01:16:03 PM
hmmm....dont really fancy cutting up the pcb...will it be ok if I desolder the microswitch from the pcb and daisy chain 2 of the switches for "G" and 2 for "V"?
As long as it's not difficult to keep the contact broken this should work. I don't have a sanwa on me to be able to tell you how hard this would be, should be ok though. And there's always electrical tape if you need a bit of buffer :)
there is not problem cutting the PCB, its easy and if you find later that you want the pcb to be common ground, just soldier a wire on both ends to connect it back, thats what I do all teh time.
But in saying so make sure ur proficient in soldiering and eletronics as you dun want to cut the wrong part of the pcb LOL.
hmmm...just had a thought...could I use the wire harness to wire up the microswitches and use 2 wires connect 2 of the microswitches to "G" and the other 2 to "V". Will use the original stock pcb to find out which to which.
The button specific wires aren't the problem, it's the grounds.
mate, trust me. the way I told you is the easiest without making too much of a mess.
you're over complicating it for urself.
its easy and works, just do it :P
OK...I will give it a go tonight then...can you show me exactly where to cut on a photo of the pcb? I will use a craft knife. And how to ground the switches please.
i'll upload a picture later tonight when i get home.
Many Thanks!
OK,
here is the picture I was supose to post up last night but got busy fixing a mate's arcade stick.
Practically what you want to achieve here is to split G1/G2 from G3/G4. So cut the PCB from the RED mark line. Make sure you don't cut the dark green line which runs around the circuit board, only cut up to the end of the lighter green part of the board.
Also you only need to cut deep enought through the green padding on the PCB and nto right throught...
Test that G1 and G2 are connect with a multi meter thingy and G3 and G4 are connected, if G1\G2 is still connected to G3/G4 then you haven't cut deep enought.
(http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1041/jlfd.jpg)
OK, gotcha...only cut the light green bit up to where the dark green trace. After that, do I wire the stick like normal or is there further solder points?
well next each of teh G1-4 is a signal point. use those as it will be easier.
You say only down and left works correct? then soldier G1/2 + its signal to down/left then do teh same for up and right to G3\4 and its singal to the other. G1\G2 + signal to the first earth\ ground+ signal on the MAIN PCB and G3\G4 +signal to the second earth\ ground +signla on the MAIN PCB.
hard to explain lol.
Quote from: zosla on May 13, 2010, 01:53:20 PM
... then soldier G1/2 + its signal to down/left then do teh same for up and right to G3\4 and its singal to the other.
Can I use the wire harness to do that?
Quote from: zosla on May 13, 2010, 01:53:20 PM
G1\G2 + signal to the first earth\ ground+ signal on the MAIN PCB and G3\G4 +signal to the second earth\ ground +signla on the MAIN PCB.
Will the wire harness take care of 2 of the switches (if so which ones?) and how to hook up the other 2?
u could possibly use the hardness for the signals but the ground u will need to wire them serperately so u know which one is which, just makes it easier. but the wirehardness may be able to do all teh signlas +1 of set the Ground signal but which one you will have to figure out as I am too lazy to trace it :P
where to solder the other set of ground? Is it the "com" or "NC" point of the switch? The solder on the sanwa pcb seems to be coated with "glue" or something preventing the solder to melt it, do I need to keep the iron on it or scrap it off with something..
u told me there are 2 sets of ground on teh MAIN PCB so one set each
yes, thats right, 2 sets grounds, 1 set will be taken care of by the ground wire from the harness, but how do I wire up the other set? Which solder points on the pcb do I gun for??
Does this make sense?
BLue line is ur second set of ground from ur stick's PCB to the hardner which spliting into 2 wires which then leads to ur MAIN PCB ground 2.
Red line is ur first set of ground from ur stick's PCB, , 2x wire linking to eaching other then that links to the MAIN PCB ground 1.
Something like that.
(http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6686/diat.jpg)
Yes, makes sense! Thanks alot!
Just finished the mod this morning, the final step was to bend the sanwa buttons contacts so that the whole thing can be closed up! Cellotaped a piece of cardboard to the bottom plate so the buttons pcb dont make contact with it.
Many thanks Alan and Andy!